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Build Your Own Alpaca Fleece Tumbler© Ted Yurkon, 2. Introduction. the spring of 2.

Welcome to CompX National. National Cabinet Lock, now known as CompX National, has designed and produced locks since 1903. We have a broad line of pin tumbler. How to Build Your Own Alpaca Fleece Tumbler © Ted Yurkon, 2009 Introduction In the spring of 2008, my wife had been looking at fiber tumblers for alpaca fleece. This is the 1988 Laurel Twincam 24V Turbo Medalist CLUB-L, which means it’s a top-of-the-line C33 Laurel, and I’m fairly sure it also means that it has Nissan’s. Touch of Modern is the most popular men's fashion site. Discover Modern Designs up to 70% Off. Guaranteed Lowest Prices.

She breeds alpacas, and we have quite a bit of fleece to. She had been looking at fiber tumblers and, because of their. I could build one. What the heck, I figured, I. I could do a more professional job on. Saabs. Well, to make a long story short, the result.

A friend of hers has made good use of it, and she also has. I have already made, and others which. I will make in the future. Anyway, it's working so well at this point.

I thought I would share what I have done so that others might. I have learned and accomplished. Please bear in mind. I have. tried to provide all the information you need to proceed on your own. Further, I used some old, used parts such as a mid- 1. These are not commodity. Still further, I make no guarantees as.

I make. no warranty that the described tumbler will work as well for you as it. And finally, I make no warranty about the safety of. Please be. careful and take care of your safety at all times.

And please be aware that I may have made mistakes in preparing this how- to. If, after reading this document, you decide you just must have this. I am willing to build. See Contact and Purchase Information at the end of this. Building the Tumbler Cage (Welding Required). I might note at this point that I used a Hobart Handler 1. MIG welder. which I purchased new for this job.

I am sure that smaller welders. I was able to achieve. I chose to use an Argon/CO2 mix and solid wire rather. This produced very clean. The instructions below do not.

I have, however, provided a pdf document. Please note that the drawings are only approximately to. Just click the image below to. Click Image for PDF Drawings. The. first step in building the cage is to fabricate the hexagon ends.

You. will need a flat surface to get good results. I don't have welding. I had a nice flat concrete floor. Bewitched Season 5 Episode 2 here. However, I didn't like the idea of welding on concrete, so. I used a sheet of 7/1. OSB (very cheap).

I drew an accurate. OSB so that I. could lay out the 6 pieces accurately before welding (those highschool. I used 1/2" square steel. Home Depot, and there are many. I don't have band saws or plasma cutters or such, so I decided to use a. A quick Google tells me that they now make metal- cutting. I've. never used one.

I just clamped the tubing in a heavy vise and cut away. Each end of each. You can either draw a line at that.

Check dimensions after cutting, and grind. One quick note about cleaning the tubing prior to.

The tubing is invariably coated with oil by the manufacturer. I cleaned each piece prior to cutting (or after. You may have a better method. With the clean hexagon segments laid out accurately on the OSB, I. I welded the upward- facing. I then verified that the hexagon shape was still true, turned.

After checking the. I finished welding each joint completely around. I repeated these steps to create the second hexagon end. Because the cage cross pieces will be welded to the hexagons at the. The next step is to cut. Alternately, you may find it easier to add tumbler shaft supports to. I did. They are described a.

In the figure below, the tumbler cage crossbars are being welded to the. I used corner clamps to hold each crossbar to the hexagons. You need to be very careful here so. However, you don't need. The ones I used are equivalent to the $2. Harbor Freight. They are a bit difficult to use but did. I am sure that more expensive clamps would be much.

Conveniently, the clamps have a gap just where the weld needs to be. When you clamp the first crossbar in place, lay another crossbar. OSB to make sure the hexagons are parallel to each. Weld the second crossbar on the side opposite to. With care, you will. One note however: You will preferably place at least 2 consecutive.

This gives you at least. It's not absolutely necessary, but it makes door installation. Welding the Tumbler Cage Crossbars (Click Image to Enlarge). The figure below shows the finished cage. Well, it's not quite a.

I learned later that the door creates a. The door. weighs approximately as much as 4 crossbars, so you may want to add 4.

Placement. is not critical, but leave at least a half inch space between the. You will see 4. counterweight crossbars in photos further down. Also, tumbler shaft. Finshed Tumbler Cage (Click Image to Enlarge).

The tumbler shaft supports can be added now. They could have. been added earlier as mentioned above. I used 1/2" square tubing as. I. welded a steel plate. I rummaged through my garage and found several. These made nice. solid platforms onto which I could mount bearing shafts and bearing.

The dimensions here don't matter much, just make it big. Photos further down show. I hadn't decided yet on what to use.

Later, I found an unused fan pulley from an old Saab 9. V4 engine which. worked great for the driven end, and I found a bearing shaft support. Shaft Supports Added to Cage (Click Image to Enlarge)2.

Building the Frame/Chassis (More Welding Required). The first step here is to build the frame ends. The process is similar. I used 1. 2. 5" square tubing. I drew the frame design on the OSB, cut the segments to match. Note that. the pillow block bearing in the photo below is not installed at this.

I just placed it there to make sure that it would fit, and that. You will notice some pretty nasty gaps here due to. Frame End Laid out for Welding (Click Image to Enlarge).

Once the ends are finished, the frame crossmembers (also 1. Take care here to get the frames square and parallel to. The tumbler is a close fit, and you don't want parts.

A carpenter's framing square helps. I didn't do this, but you may find it advisable to used. Just spot weld each crossmember at first, and. The frame braces can be added after the crossmembers are welded in. I used 3/4" square tubing for the. Dimensions are not critical.

The crossmember. braces should start near respective ends and meet near the center to. You will notice that I. It extends about a foot.

Adjust this dimension and. You will also notice that I. You will also notice that I welded in axles at this time.

I used. commonly available 3- ft long, 1/2" diameter, zinc coated rod for the. Use hardened steel rods if you want a super tough axle. I. drilled 1/2" holes through the legs (maybe 9/1. I left the excess rod until the wheels. The finished. farme is shown below. Welded Frame (Click Image to Enlarge)    I primed the frame for painting at this time, along with a good portion of the barn floor.

See below. Frame Primed for Painting (Click Image to Enlarge)    I then painted the frame a nice green, again getting a good portion of the barn floor. See below. Painted Frame (Click Image to Enlarge)3. Building the Cage Ends.

First some important comments are in order. Please read this paragraph.

I first constructed the cage ends using 1/2" OSB, and I spaced. OSB. This was a mistake for several reasons. First, the rim. is screwed to the OSB, but the OSB isn't nearly as strong as plywood. Secondly, OSB is rather rough, with catchy splinters here an.

We found that alpaca fiber is drawn to splinters like a magnet. Walk away for 1. 0 minutes. The inner- facing. Therefore, I used 3/4". This provided a smooth surface that doesn't catch tumbling fibers. Further, the 3/4" plywood is holding the pulley screws very well.

The. only catch is that, due to the extra thickness, the mounting screws. I counterbored each hole just enough. Later photos show these revisions.

You can follow the instructions. I used 3/4" plywood, and not the 1/2" OSB. I first drew a nice hexagon on the plywood. I made it larger than the. That is to say, it is 1" wider, face to face, than the metal. I then accurately located the center (where lines drawn.

Before cutting the center hole, I used the. I could accurately mount the rim later. I then cut the center. I then glued 8 pieces of 3/8" plywood spacers (any. Please note that I erred in the photo below. The spacers can extend.

A little is okay, but too much, and you'll find. I had to cut and chisel off the excess. Cage End Assembly - Later Modified (Click Image to Enlarge).